Peru: Lima and Pisco
Lima is rather ho-hum as far as cities go. The reason for this are the violent earthquakes that
shake the city every few years; most of the colonial architecture has long been turned to rubble and in place stand homogenous concrete buildings. It does, however, have a wonderful beachfront location and a multitude of old 'american schoolbuses' painted in an assortment of bright primary colours escorting locals about the place. Forget looking out for bus numbers and designated routes - a conductor simply yells from the open door the destination and stops at anyone walking the curbside pavement.
We did a short orientation tour and, at about 10am, indulged in some Pisco sours at the very hotel where they were invented. They consist of eggwhites, limes, sugar and a very sour distilled wine. The trick is get them down before the egg whites separate to the top.
We then headed to Pisco for an overnight stop. It's a sad place. About 3 years ago an earthquake flattened the place - absolutely flattened it. The city, of about 300,000 people, still looks much the same due to entrenched government corruption (a lot of foreign aid money came in and disappeared) and general poverty of the country. As a consequence crime is rife and city is rather dangerous hence no photos - you don't flash about an expensive camera. We limited our interaction to the hotel and a 50 metre walk for dinner.
Day 76
We left for the port and took an early speed boat to the Ballestas Islands. We were both unfamiliar with them but they were amazing.
This is the port.
And this is the peninsular on the way out to the islands. The giant cactus looking shape is the subject of some debate. No one really knows who made it or why. They guess it was made anytime between 600 - 2000 years ago.
The islands themselves were amazing. There were birds aplenty. In fact, that darkness you can see on the island in the picture below is in fact a seething mass of birds. They would have numbered the hundreds of thousands. The V shape of birds was also repeated into the distance as far as your eyes could see.
There were also plenty of seals...
We then headed to a winery where they grow, ferment and distill Pisco grapes. It was an interesting tour and amazing to think that grapes could grow in what is effectively desert. Their ability to make do with the little that is available is shown by the terrific press is the photo below.
We then headed off for some buggying in the sand dunes as well as a spot of sand-boarding. A clip of Adrian taking off down a dune at speed will be shown in a separate post.
We also took in a cemetary of the Nazca people (below), before visiting a small goldsmith whose mind had obviously been affected by the mercury process.
An overnight bus delivered us to Arequipa. It's a very pretty place and is known as the white city. This is due to the fact that the local stone taken from the surrounding volcanoes, from which most buildings are constructed, is a marvellous ivory white in colour.
We went through an old monastry complete with catacombes and also saw 'Juanita' the frozen Inca mummy found a few years ago.
We were very fortunate to do a homestay in the remote village of Sibayo. We were treated to a home cooked meal and dressed up in the local custom. Note: the locals don't dress up in the outfits just for the tourists and then put on a pair of jeans afterwards. This is what they actually wear.
Dora, our host 'Mama', showing us her amazing sewing skills. It's a pedal power machine too.
We then headed off for some buggying in the sand dunes as well as a spot of sand-boarding. A clip of Adrian taking off down a dune at speed will be shown in a separate post.
Day 77
We took a small plane and flew over the Nazca lines. They are amazing. These photos don't really show their majesty. Look carefull though.
We also took in a cemetary of the Nazca people (below), before visiting a small goldsmith whose mind had obviously been affected by the mercury process.
Day 78
An overnight bus delivered us to Arequipa. It's a very pretty place and is known as the white city. This is due to the fact that the local stone taken from the surrounding volcanoes, from which most buildings are constructed, is a marvellous ivory white in colour.
We went through an old monastry complete with catacombes and also saw 'Juanita' the frozen Inca mummy found a few years ago.
Does this Alpaca look angry to you?
Days 79 - 80 
Chivay is located amongst the Colca Canyon, which is the second biggest canyon in the world (it dwarfs the Grand Canyon in the US).
The answer is yes. He spat at Adrian seconds later.
This is one of the three volcanoes overlooking the city. It's still active...
Days 79 - 80
Chivay, Sibayo and Colca Canyon
The drive to Chivay was amazing. It's located in the central Andes highlands and the scenery is amazing. We stopped at a few stalls on the side of the road as well as some kids herding alpaca and llama. The first picture is of our tour leader Cynthia who, seconds later, discovered that the lamb was busy taking a toilet break.
The drive to Chivay was amazing. It's located in the central Andes highlands and the scenery is amazing. We stopped at a few stalls on the side of the road as well as some kids herding alpaca and llama. The first picture is of our tour leader Cynthia who, seconds later, discovered that the lamb was busy taking a toilet break.
Chivay is located amongst the Colca Canyon, which is the second biggest canyon in the world (it dwarfs the Grand Canyon in the US).
It also has a multitude of hot springs which were most relaxing after long day of travel. What wasn't relaxing was the massage Adrian had. Ambitious but rubbish was the description.
We also enjoyed a show dinner with traditional Peruvian song and dancing. Audience participation was required. This is one of Andrew taking one for the team.
The Colca Canyon is also home of one of the last refuges of the great American Condor. We were particularly lucky and had a number of close fly-bys.
The canyon itself is also amazing. It's basically a desert but the locals scrape a living from the land by making best use of the abundant small springs and snow run off.
We were very fortunate to do a homestay in the remote village of Sibayo. We were treated to a home cooked meal and dressed up in the local custom. Note: the locals don't dress up in the outfits just for the tourists and then put on a pair of jeans afterwards. This is what they actually wear.
Dora, our host 'Mama', showing us her amazing sewing skills. It's a pedal power machine too.One of Dora's creations modelled by Nikki.
Another one we spotted at one of the towns on the way back to Chivay.
And this is the little fella who ran around while we prepared dinner. Very cute.
Another one we spotted at one of the towns on the way back to Chivay.
Day 81 and 82
Lake Titicaca 
We spent a day on the lake in a locally made boat and ending up consuming a lifetime's amount of carbon dioxide. The engine didn't have an exhaust and was conveniently located in the galley. The alternative was a not so pleasant chilling wind on the top deck (the lake is located more than 10,000 feet above sea level).
Lake Titicaca
This is a view of the magnificent lake and Puno from overlooking hills.
We spent a day on the lake in a locally made boat and ending up consuming a lifetime's amount of carbon dioxide. The engine didn't have an exhaust and was conveniently located in the galley. The alternative was a not so pleasant chilling wind on the top deck (the lake is located more than 10,000 feet above sea level).
We visit Taquile Island where we lunch and dance with some locals. The island is the home a unique tribe where the men knit to prove their manhood and where people have a test run of 2 years living together before they decide whether or not to get married.
We then spent the night in another homestay off a peninsular that juts into the lake and is, for most purposes, considered an island. Again we got into the local clothes.
This is the wonderful little room we stayed in. It's built completely from mud brick covered in a mud render and dressed up with some reeds. Simple but beautiful.
This is the wonderful little room we stayed in. It's built completely from mud brick covered in a mud render and dressed up with some reeds. Simple but beautiful.
This is our 'mama' who was extremely shy and her grandaughter who wasn't.
The next morning we jumped back into our polluting pontoon and visited some of the Uros islands. These are islands made from reed and are the home to yet another unique indian culture.
Days 83 - 84
Cuzco, the home of the Incas. 
The next morning we jumped back into our polluting pontoon and visited some of the Uros islands. These are islands made from reed and are the home to yet another unique indian culture.
Days 83 - 84
Cuzco, the home of the Incas.
Inca actually just means 'king'. The civilisation referred to itself as the Tawantinsuyu which means the four lands - north, south, east and west.
These were our last few days before embarking on the Gringo Trail, also known as the Inca Trail.
The stonework from the old Inca buildings is amazing. You would be hard pressed getting a sheet of paper through the gaps.
Chilling out with some of the group.
Next post: the Inca Trail.
Chilling out with some of the group.
Next post: the Inca Trail.
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